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Post by HottyToddy on Nov 19, 2007 12:28:44 GMT -5
Started the project yesterday morning. Worked until 7:30pm and still not thru with the rear. It's going a lot slower than I had predicted. I shouldn't be surprised, though. All of my projects wind up this way!
I still haven't gotten the hubs off the original axles! They are seized-up or something....my 12ton press won't touch them! I'm putting new axles in, but I need the shim and dust cover from the backside of the hub. Anybody had this problem before?
I got the new pinion installed and shimmed (hopefully correctly)...so should see some progress tonite.
Anybody got advise for the Dana 30 front? Things to do/not do?
I'll try to post pics later.
Ti
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Post by rccolacc on Nov 19, 2007 13:40:29 GMT -5
What axle are you talking about when you say you can't get the hubs off? Dana 35? If you're talking about the rear axle, what do you mean by hub? If you mean bearings, I've always just taken a grinder and a cutoff wheel to get the old ones off (on a dana 35). It works pretty well.
I've got some experience regearing a Cherokee (dana 30 front, 35 rear). The club did a sort of regear party in Westpoint last year for BC's TJ. We learned a lot about regearing-- like always get new shims and new bearings for the ring and pinion. Especially get a new crush sleeve for the pinion-- you shouldn't reuse the old crush sleeve. It helps a lot when you're setting up the pattern.
Are you in Starkville? If you are, I'd be glad to come over after work some night.
-RC
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Post by rccolacc on Nov 19, 2007 13:46:57 GMT -5
Well nevermind-- I see you live in Aberdeen and you have a CJ. I don't know anything about regearing CJs. Maybe someone else can chime in and help.
Sorry.
-RC
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Post by broncocraigellis on Nov 19, 2007 20:25:32 GMT -5
When you say wheel hub, do you mean on the front end? The rear, assuming you have the AMC 20, doesn't have wheel hubs per se, and the brake drums should just come off after adjusting the shoes in and yanking them off. Then loosen the bolts that attach the backing plate and the axle shaft to the housing. I agree with RC, just cut the old bearing off to remove the backing plate. Then don't forget to install the backing plate on the new axle before pressing on the new bearing. Post up a pic. Maybe that will help us see what's going on. In my (limited) experience setting up diffs., as long as you have a good final gear pattern with adequate preload on the pinion and carrier bearings, the R & P should hold up fine. Most importantly the contact pattern should be centered from face to flank of the ring gear's teeth. Toe to heel isn't as big of a deal as long as there's a good amount of contact along the gear teeth. Check this link out if you haven't already or don't have a print copy: www.ringpinion.com/Content/HowTo/TechnicalInstructions/Yukon_Installation_Kit.pdfIt really helped me the first time, and I refer to it every time I set up a diff. Which, admittedly isn't all that often, but I haven't had one fail yet...(crossing fingers) For the front, I would begin with the same thickness of shims to begin with on the pinion. Also, if you don't have an in-lb. torque wrench, roll the pinion using the yoke to get a feel for how tight the preload should be. Of course, that assumes that your current pinion bearing isn't totally shot. Then you can "feel" if the new pinion bearing has the approximate correct preload based on your earlier "measurement" by feel. Not the best, or the right way even, to check pinion bearing preload, but it has worked before. Oh, and when checking for a pattern (hopefully you have real gear marking compound), make sure to turn the yoke and hold the ring gear at the same time so there's a bit of load on the diff. The pattern should be more accurate that way. |
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Post by jharfst on Nov 19, 2007 23:46:48 GMT -5
I still haven't gotten the hubs off the original axles! They are seized-up or something....my 12ton press won't touch them! I'm putting new axles in, but I need the shim and dust cover from the backside of the hub. Anybody had this problem before? I got the new pinion installed and shimmed (hopefully correctly)...so should see some progress tonite. Anybody got advise for the Dana 30 front? Things to do/not do? Yeah, had this problem too. Since you're using new axles, just remove the hub nut and suspend the axle shaft by the hub flange loosely in a vise and beat the heck out of it with a BFH. You'll probably mushroom the end but it should eventually pop off. Might help to spray it down with penetrating lube and let it sit for a while first. A little heat on the hub flange from a torch might help too. After doing the AMC20, the Dana 30 will be a breeze. I did it without even removing it. Good luck. -jim |
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Post by broncocraigellis on Nov 20, 2007 1:03:50 GMT -5
ahh...forgot about the two-piece axle
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Post by HottyToddy on Nov 20, 2007 8:48:17 GMT -5
Thanks for the responses! Yeah, Craig, the AMC 20 has two piece axles, but it won't by tonite! The old ones are in two pieces now, since I cut the backside into with a portaband. We have all the old stuff out, and got the pinion set last nite. Just set the ring gear in to see how it looks, and can already tell the shims from the original are a little too thick on the passenger side. This was expected since the new 3:73 aftermarket gears are much beefier. Here are a couple of pics from last nite. Sorry they're so blurry....I have a cheap phone. I'll try to get my digital and take better ones tonite.   |
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Post by jharfst on Nov 20, 2007 11:49:21 GMT -5
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Post by broncocraigellis on Nov 20, 2007 18:36:57 GMT -5
Cool...nice shop too, by the way.
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Post by HottyToddy on Nov 21, 2007 7:55:24 GMT -5
Jim, That's a great write-up! I'm printing it out and saving it for later. I bought all the parts for the R/P and axle swaps (front and rear) before we broke ground on our new house. Now, I have TWO projects going.....and I'm down in my back again  Once I get the CJ back together....I'm not starting a d*mned thing until the house is complete! I'm gettin' OLD!!  |
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Post by jeepinxj on Nov 26, 2007 14:59:40 GMT -5
Have a dremel handy for the dana 30. you can make the space a little bigger to better fit the locker
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Post by HottyToddy on Dec 2, 2007 21:44:37 GMT -5
Hope to get back on the CJ tomorrow nite. We're having a helluva time getting the alignment right in the pinion. We're gonna shim it tomorrow nite and , hopefully, we'll get the rear done.
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Post by jharfst on Dec 2, 2007 22:24:30 GMT -5
Did you get the thick washer/shim that goes under the rear bearing race on the pinion? I forgot that one at first and the alignment was way off until I figured it out (pinion was way too far out). I think I pulled the pinion out abnd reshim'ed at least 5 times before I realized it. Once I had that, everything lined up with the same thickness of shims that came out.
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Post by HottyToddy on Dec 15, 2007 18:36:37 GMT -5
PROGRESS !!
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Post by HottyToddy on Dec 15, 2007 18:42:13 GMT -5
PROGRESS !! We FINALLY got the ring and pinion set right ! Specs called for a backlash tolerance of 8-12 thousandths...mine is at 9 now!! I take my carrier to a machine shop and mill down 50 thousandths on the right (passenger) side to get the ring gear farther that direction. Worked perfectly. We backed the pinion out enough not to hit, and shimmed the left side an additional 41 thousandths. Below is the carrier with the .050 removed...you can see the ring where they started.  Pinion set and ready for the ring.  Ring backlash set at .009...we painted and rolled the ring for the helluvit.  My first cousin Glenn is my advisor / crew cheif. He's done everything from work on scrappers and dozers, had his own mud truck, and ran late model dirt until last year. Helps to have someone in the family like that !!  The final assembly for the evening. The new solid axles go in next....but for now....it's MILLER TIME.  |
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