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Post by broncocraigellis on Nov 7, 2005 16:33:49 GMT -5
here's the deal:
i fell off a big ledge at gray rock and the engine quit and would not start again.
it will run with the key held to "start" as soon as i let go it dies.
have replaced solenoid, ballast resistor, and ignition switch. i think the problem may be in the ignition module for the motorcrap ignition system.
i have power at all terminals on the solenoid, the coil, ballast resistor- WITH THE KEY OFF! please help, i'm lost.
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Post by Busted Knuckle Racing on Nov 7, 2005 16:48:15 GMT -5
Heck, I would say ingition switch but you have already replace it? got me...
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Post by bcjeep on Nov 7, 2005 20:08:44 GMT -5
check on the ground wire leading to the starter or the ground terminal on the starter.
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Post by rsmith on Nov 7, 2005 20:39:12 GMT -5
It is a problem with your module. You have lost the hot in run wire. It is the red wire on the module. It should have voltage when the key is in the run position. If you do have voltage then the module is probably bad. The reason it is only running in the crank mode is because you are getting voltage to the white wire which is intended to advance the timing for easier starting. As soon as you let off the key you are losing that power. I suspect it is a problem with your ignition switch or the wire in between the switch and module. If you need help give me a holler.
I just trashed my Ford module and upgraded to a Chevy HEI control module that I mounted externally with a computer cooling fan. I am also using a Ford TFI coil -so in essence I converted the ford igniton into a high firing HEI system. I was burning control boxes left and right with that TFI coil. I have had no trouble out of my Chevy hybrid ignition system yet.
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Post by rsmith on Nov 8, 2005 7:20:17 GMT -5
Craig I read what I wrote about the module box and it didn't make much sense to me this morning. I wrote that last night after some major work in my online graduate classes. My brain was fried.
Here is the deal:
Red Wire on the module should have approximately 12 volts with the the key in the "run" positon.
White wire on the module should have approximately 12 volts while the switch is in the "crank" position. When you let off the key this wire should no longer have voltage. This is to advance the timing while the engine is cranking to make it easier. This wire is really not necessary.
If you do not have the 12 volts on the red wire in the "run" position, then it is possible that the module will fire off of the power to the white wire and as soon as you let off of the key, the lack of voltage on the red wire will just kill the engine. Somehow you have lost voltage in the "run" position. It could be the module or the switch or wire running to the module. There may may also be a fuse somewhere in the line.
Sorry if that last post was total confusion.
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Post by broncocraigellis on Nov 8, 2005 22:50:21 GMT -5
Guys- thank you for your help in isolating this problem. Rob, after replacing the box and coil today, and the truck STILL not starting, I was stumped again. Then after much consternation I decided to check the fuses...needless to say I had a blown fuse. Swapped in a new one, and it fired right up and purred(as much as it can purr). I looked at them a while back but missed the blown one:)  WHOOPS! Hope everyone has a good laugh, I know I did! |
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