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Post by krimes13 on Feb 11, 2009 22:41:24 GMT -5
This is the remnants of my second driveshaft’s u-joint straps and bolts. The first one stripped the splines out.  As you can see I had a good time at Gray Rock. My dilemma now is to pull the front output yoke from the D300. I got the retaining nut off and the yoke didn’t just come off, but before I go using a puller should I know anything special about getting this yoke off. Is it probably just real tight or is there something else to come off first? I just need to pull it off to make getting the broken off bolt out a little easier to work on. |
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Post by krimes13 on Feb 18, 2009 16:49:51 GMT -5
I still haven’t been able to get this yoke off yet. I’ve used pullers and alternated beating on the ears to the point of worrying if they may break off. My next choice, I guess, is heat. With the abundance of oil and grime on the t-case and transmission; I wasn’t comfortable lighting a torch while under the jeep. So, I took the t-case out and am planning on getting back to it in the next couple days.
The jeep isn’t going anywhere soon because I realized the last person the pull the trans or t-case had messed up the threaded inserts in the frame. So they welded the skid-plate/mount back to the frame. Now I get to fix it the right way.
Just what I was looking forward to!!??
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Post by dan99tj1 on Feb 18, 2009 21:27:15 GMT -5
It's like opening a can of worms, if it is not one thing it's two, good luck
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Post by krimes13 on Feb 18, 2009 21:54:11 GMT -5
It's off, after alot of heat, more PB Blaster, a broken puller, and alot more beating. Now, I've still got to get out the broken bolt.
Oh, and thanks for the moral support Dan.
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Post by krimes13 on Mar 3, 2009 0:55:51 GMT -5
While the t-case was out, I removed the inspection plate just to be sure there weren’t
any surprises. The oil that came out was nothing special, just looked like old gear oil,
then I went ahead and pulled the trans (T-4). The oil from which had more of a light melted caramel look.?.
After consulting my Chilton’s, I saw that the T-4 calls for ATF and to fill the t-case with the
same fluid as the trans. I thought it odd to fill a Dana 300 with ATF. I’m planning to open
up the trans and clean it out as much as possible, apparently it is a pain in the rear just to
get the trans cover off. I guess it was a compilation of different fluids/oils added over the years.
Do the fluids transfer back and forth between the trans and the t-case or should they be sealed from each other.
Just trying to get my ducks in a row. I've got plenty time, still got that cross-member issue to address.
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Post by rccolacc on Mar 3, 2009 8:33:58 GMT -5
Pretty sure they're sealed from each other.
My Cherokee and Grand have the 242 and 231 cases. They have a chain in them, and they both use the ATF for fluid, FWIW. It may just be to make things easy.
-RC
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Post by rsmith on Mar 3, 2009 15:25:03 GMT -5
Pretty sure they're sealed from each other. My Cherokee and Grand have the 242 and 231 cases. They have a chain in them, and they both use the ATF for fluid, FWIW. It may just be to make things easy. -RC I have always thought in my mind that gear driven cases uses gear oil while chain driven use ATF. Is this true? I don't think ATF will hurt. You will have less horsepower robbing friction with ATF, but do not take that for a professional opinion - just a plowboy thinking. I know many mud racers use ATF in the differentials to cut down on friction. |
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Post by Rusty H on Mar 3, 2009 21:14:39 GMT -5
I would change it to a u bolt style yoke. A little stronger.
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Post by broncocraigellis on Mar 3, 2009 22:49:10 GMT -5
I second the u-bolt style if possible.
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Post by krimes13 on Mar 3, 2009 23:47:37 GMT -5
I would change it to a u bolt style yoke. A little stronger. Yeah, hopefully that’s the plan. But, at least $50 per yoke, I gotta spread out the cost. I also have to replace the trans mount and the little torque arm stud and bushings. Planning on swaping out all four yokes. Eventually. |
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Post by krimes13 on Mar 10, 2009 21:31:05 GMT -5
This is what I’ve got to work with on the cross-member as of now. I got my dad to get some ½ x 1 ½ flat bar, drilled holes large enough to drop in some 3/8 nuts and weld ‘em in.  The nuts line up with the original holes on the trans mount/cross-member.   Now I’ve got to set ‘em up on the bottom of the frame and weld the strips on.  Or maybe the zip-ties will hold just fine.  RC has agreed to allow me to get some welder time, but now I’ve got to get my hands on a trailer to get the jeep to his place because as luck would have it; the trailer that I usually have is back in the delta at my folk’s. |
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Post by rccolacc on Mar 11, 2009 16:44:37 GMT -5
I'll do it, but I gotta warn you I don't weld upside-down. I guess that means we gotta roll the Jeep to weld it...
J/k we'll do it.
-RC
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Post by krimes13 on Mar 29, 2009 23:33:16 GMT -5
Guess it’s time for an update. Much thanks to RC for setting me up with some welder time. I believe that this set-up will hold up just fine.  I now have all parts back together and ready to get back on the road ……. BUT ……. now it won’t crank. It fired once when I was getting the t-case into gear to tighten the yokes. A while later when I was done it absolutely wouldn’t crank. Guess this will start a new thread. Gotta love Jeepin’!!!! |
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