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Post by dan99tj1 on Apr 2, 2007 22:52:48 GMT -5
i pulled the 73 into the shop in november to do a little upgrading. out came the 304, manual steering and brakes, in goes a 360 w\ edelbrock intake, holly 4 barrel (for now, next will be propane), headers, new clutch,etc... now, 5 months later, i finally drove it today, and it does seem to have a little more power, it will smoke the 35's untill i let out, power steering and brakes from a waggy, and next i plan on building the cage i bought the tubing bender and tube for a year ago. did a semi-complete rewire thanks to a small fire under the dash that happened right after i got it. a simple motor swap led to tracing wires to taking out the dash to brakes to steering and one thing led to another to where i am at now.
and i just bought a 78 cj5.
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Post by dan99tj1 on Oct 13, 2008 21:32:35 GMT -5
I finally got around to building my cage for the 5, I tied the front seats into the cage and built sliders that I will tie the cage to. I have had my bender for almost 2 years and I figured it was about time to use it.
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Post by HottyToddy on Oct 14, 2008 14:30:55 GMT -5
Cool! You got any pics? We wanna see........
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Post by dan99tj1 on Oct 16, 2008 21:28:21 GMT -5
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Post by HottyToddy on Oct 17, 2008 9:54:52 GMT -5
NICE !!  |
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Post by dan99tj1 on Feb 24, 2009 23:14:06 GMT -5
well, after the almost roll at grey rock, i thought it was time for some more upgrading, new knuckles and a disk brake conversion, finally pulled it out tonight.
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Post by rsmith on Feb 25, 2009 10:07:58 GMT -5
well, after the almost roll at grey rock, i thought it was time for some more upgrading, new knuckles and a disk brake conversion, finally pulled it out tonight. Maybe I need to look into that upgrade as well :-) |
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Post by dan99tj1 on Feb 25, 2009 22:58:24 GMT -5
almost??  |
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Post by dan99tj1 on Mar 5, 2009 0:00:58 GMT -5
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Post by dan99tj1 on Jul 27, 2009 21:11:49 GMT -5
well i changed out the front drums to discs and took the long shackles i had just made off and had the front end aligned and it rides straight down the road good and bakes straight but, now when i hit a bump it wanders some, even when i let off the gas and now the 35's are rubbing.. so i thought i may buy some 33's and have it re-aligned or go to waggy springs in the front spring over with a shackle reversal and 3 link the back.. i change my mind every day and hate to buy a set of tires if it is still going to wonder..if it is going to wonder i just assume to so the suspension..any suggestions or input
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Post by jharfst on Jul 31, 2009 9:11:26 GMT -5
well i changed out the front drums to discs and took the long shackles i had just made off and had the front end aligned and it rides straight down the road good and bakes straight but, now when i hit a bump it wanders some, even when i let off the gas and now the 35's are rubbing.. so i thought i may buy some 33's and have it re-aligned or go to waggy springs in the front spring over with a shackle reversal and 3 link the back.. i change my mind every day and hate to buy a set of tires if it is still going to wonder..if it is going to wonder i just assume to so the suspension..any suggestions or input Is it a hard swerve or just something like it seems to be following ruts in the road? If it's a hard swerve then it sounds like bump steer and is directly related to how parallel the drag link is to the axle. If it's just general wandering like following unevenness or ruts in the road, then I have had the same thing to varying degrees. I run a spring over with CJ rear springs up front. I've braced my steering box thinking frame flex was causing movement. I also switched to stiffer poly bushings to try and help. Neither did much. The one thing that made the most difference was switching to radials from bias ply, but looks like from your pictures, you're already running radials. I've decided that frame flex or just general looseness at the shackle bushings is the culprit. A shackle reversal would probably cure it and may be in my future. That may help you also; even without changing the springs. I have also heard of people installing track bars, YJ style, to help with handling but I'm not there yet. I also haven't reinstalled my sway bar so can't tell you if that would help or not. Any rate, good luck. -jim |
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Post by dan99tj1 on Jul 31, 2009 21:07:01 GMT -5
i have the springs and perches but i didn't want to buy tires and not cure the problems, it is not a hard swerve but it is bad enough even when i let off the gas i had better be ready. it does have the narrow early jeep springs and no sway bar. it pulls the 35's with no problem but they rub some. i like it with the 35's but i still don't want it to be too big because i want to drive it around town, not far just around. it was not this bad before the disc brake conversion
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Post by rsmith on Aug 2, 2009 17:20:46 GMT -5
That 75 CJ5 I had did the same thing. I was running 36's on it. I had a shackle lift and a body lift to clear the tires. I firmly believe it was the longer shackles and narrow springs. I remember that I used to start compensating before I would hit that bridge or pot hole. The easiest solution for me was to sell it. I am not recommending that rather just stating an option. i have the springs and perches but i didn't want to buy tires and not cure the problems, it is not a hard swerve but it is bad enough even when i let off the gas i had better be ready. it does have the narrow early jeep springs and no sway bar. it pulls the 35's with no problem but they rub some. i like it with the 35's but i still don't want it to be too big because i want to drive it around town, not far just around. it was not this bad before the disc brake conversion |
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Post by dan99tj1 on Aug 2, 2009 20:28:58 GMT -5
i threaten it all the time especially with the baby coming, and she was all for it until someone showed up and the she got mad because it is our sat evening ride around time. i thought about going full width and turning it into a crawler but i have been working on the 7 for that. got 100ft on tube wed. for it
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Post by jharfst on Aug 3, 2009 7:28:18 GMT -5
So only hitting the brakes would make it swerve even on level ground? Did you replace the master cylinder with a newer disk/drum brake CJ style when you did the disk brake conversion? Reason I ask is that I had the same sort of problem on my suburban a few years ago. When I would hit the brake it would swerve one way and then when I let off it would go the other. Turned out to be a brake hose that was swelled shut, not letting the brake fluid flow properly back and forth. In your case, I think drum brakes use a residual pressure valve that keeps a little pressure on the cylinder to limit how far they have to travel during braking. I don't think that disk brakes need this and the valve can even can make the brake pads drag, causing pulling to one side or the other. Don't know if this is it; just something I was reading while researching a disk brake conversion for the rear of my CJ.
BTW, I do have to say that my BFG M/T 33's work pretty well on the highway. I'm now down to just a tiny bit of wander on uneven road, but it's not bad. A sway bar would probably cure the rest of my ills.
-jim
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